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Bodrum tonight begins just before sunset, heralded by the sound
of rushing wings as flocks of crows return to the castle
for
evening roost and by the chugging of daily tour boats returning
to evening harbor. The traditional holiday pastime of quietly
sipping cocktails while watching the sun slowly sink into
the sea is unfortunately impossible in Bodrum due to its
location
on the southern shore of the Bodrum
peninsula. That pleasure is reserved for those staying
on the western coast, in villages such as Turgutreis.
However those residing in Bodrum are perhaps more fortunate.
While lacking the view of the sunset, Bodrumites, or Bodrumlu
in Turkish, can witness shadows slowly ascending the whitewashed
houses and surrounding hillsides as the castle takes on a
glowing golden hue from the rays of the setting sun before
turning an azure blue highlighted in gold as the sun sinks
and the castle lights come on.
One of the best places for watching this unique
spectacle is in the Marina or in one of the many bars
or cafes that line the harborfront. Best of all is to
visit the amphitheater perched on the hillside above town.
Well worth a visit in its own right, the amphitheater acquires
a special ambiance at dusk, the panorama of Bodrum, harbor,
castle and the Aegean beyond
spread out below.
 Strolling
down from the amphitheater the visitor enters quiet neighborhoods,
filled with the sights and sounds of children playing, and
their parents sitting in open gardens or on the steps of their
houses, enjoying a cup of tea, a beer or a glass of Raki after
work. Like on all streets in Bodrum, the visitor eventually
winds up at the sea, in this case the busy harborfront, alive
with cafes, bars
and restaurants.
Customary before dinner cocktails can be had
at any Bodrum bar featuring the exotic, or local Turkish spirits,
wines, beers and most importantly Raki, an aniseed flavored
liquor nicknamed lions milk due to its milky color when mixed
with water or ice and the lion-like affect it can have. Dining
in Turkey is lighthearted, lingering and can last hours. Bodrum
restaurants offer everything from traditional Turkish
cuisine to contemporary Western to everything in between.
Dinner usually begins with drinks, followed by "meze" Turkish
starters or hors d'oeuvres and then progresses through entree
to desert, usually fresh fruit in the summer season. Each
course, of course punctuated by liberal doses of Raki.
 fter
dinner Bodrum remains open until the crack of dawn. Most shop
and boutique are open until midnight, perhaps the best time
to shop as the cool of the evening is more comfortable, a
few drinks makes everything look better and local shopkeepers
just might be willing to offer that special bargain for one
more sale before closing.
Bodrum probably has more bars
per area than anywhere else in Turkey, appealing to all tastes.
Intimate seaside cafes,
with magnificent views of the illuminated castle mingle
with busy, energetic streetside bars featuring the latest
music. There are also a number of clubs that offer
live music, either traditional Turkish folk music or jazz.
A specialty of a number of hotels and tavernas is Turkish
Night, where local musicians play the "saz", a guitarlike
instrument and the "zurna" a type of flute in accompaniment
to belly dancers swaying between tables.
The most popular after evening attraction is,
however, simply to see and be seen, mingling with people of
all description. After dinner one can wander the streets at
leisure, caressed by the balmy night breeze, stopping for
a cup of thick Turkish coffee, a glass of tea or something
stronger.
The beautiful Bodrum
climate, so enjoyable in
the daytime doesn't slink of with the setting sun. Beachfront
restaurants are open all evening, and a boat trip and a swim
are just as enjoyable after dark. Away from the lights of
Bodrum, the Turkish sky takes on brilliance unseen in the
industrial west. A great place to enjoy it is from a boat
anchored outside the hot springs at Karaada Island. There,
with some friends, a bottle of wine, and a few candles you
can explore the caverns, waist deep in warm water, as a Turkish
Tom Sawyer.
 For
those with energy left Bodrum discos and nightclubs close
when the sunrises and you can literally dance until dawn. Nightclubs
in Bodrum also feature the added plus of most of
them being open air and on the seaside. After an energetic
night on the town, most Turks would feel that one more snack
is in order before bed. Soup is preferred as the traditional
remedy to prevent tomorrow's hangover but there are a variety
of snack bars open to fill a variety of cravings.
By this time the Muezzin is climbing the minaret
to begin his prayers and usher in another day. A day and a
night only Bodrum can offer.
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