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Perhaps
the most alluring aspect of trekking along the peaks of hills
of the Bodrum peninsula is
the chance to feast one's eyes on superb panoramas of innumerable
islands, capes, inlets, bays and coves that grace this Aegean
coast like intricate lace. Viewed from afar the peaks have
the appearance of barren rock, but a closer look often reveals
that these rocks form man-made walls of terraced fields. Construction
of the terraces began in remote antiquity and continued 'till
recent times, and now, shrouded by vegetation, they hide their
past from the human eye.
Where there are peaks there are valleys, many
covered with pine and an astonishing assortment of shrubs
and plants, their beauty concealed from coastal viewing by
dense and disorderly construction. The valleys and the mountains
can be explored by a handful of trails along which are found
dwellings and their foundations, water-wells, cisterns and
ancient keeps or forts. Some of these are the remains from
the oldest-known inhabitants of this area, the Lelegians,
who lived here before 700 BC and, according to Strabo the
Geographer (64 BC-23 AD), founded eight cities in the region.
Pliny, geographer and historian (23-79 AD), identifies six
of these cities, Termera, Side (Sihda). Madnasa, Pedasa, Telmissus
and Uranium as those that were depopulated by Mausolus who
transferred their populations to his new capital, Halicarnassus,
while the remaining two towns, Syangela and Myndos, were enlarged.
The sites of these ancient settlements, with the remains of
their characteristic Lelegian structures, may be reached in
walks along the quiet trails less traveled today.
Lelegian
dwellings are easily recognized by their unusual circular
and oval shapes. Built with large, roughly squared boulders,
these Lelegian structures sometimes reached outer diameter
of 20-23 meters. Their inner unroofed animal enclosures are
also roughly circular but not concentric with the outer wall,
thus forming very thick sections on one side of the structure
where living quarters and storage rooms are located.
Buildings
of rectangular and square shape are also found in these
settlements and the remains of keeps of refuge, stone towers
placed in
inaccessible places near hill tops, provide significant
clues to the way of life of these long gone people.
Ancient Settlrmrnts
and of Strongholds Refuge
1. Side: This
is the best concealed of all the Lelegian settlements and
is mentioned only by Pliny; it is referred to as Sidba by
Stephen the Byzantine. Located on Karadag (Black Mountain)
Side is composed of two separate settlements of strongholds
of refuge, Oren Keep in the north and Girel Keep in the south.
These blend so well with the surroundings that neither can
be spotted from any distance. Black Mountain and Oyuklu Mountain
(690 m.) form the highest massif of the peninsula and the
latter also has a refuge stronghold near its peak.
2. Termera:
Situated in the south-west of the peninsula on the tops of
Aspat Cifit fortress and Asarlik peak, both of which constitute
natural strongholds of refuge.
3. Telmissus:Situated
on the hills overlooking the village of Gürece. Outer walls
and an inner keep or tower can he seen.
4. Mandasa: Remains
of this settlement are located on a hill between Turkbükü
and Yukarigöl. A necropolis, or cemetery, is in the vicinity.
5. Pedasa:
Can he reached by a 90 minute walk to the north of Konacik
village. Remains of a keep and Lelegian walls exist today.
6. Uranium:
Situated on top of Burgaz Hill near the village of
Geris, it can be identified by the remains of an inner keep
and outer walls.
7. Syangela: Located
to the east of the Bodrum peninsula between the villages
of Kizilagaç and çiftlik.
8. Thiangela: Located
on Kale Mountain above Derince village and to the north
of Çiftlik. Remains of the town and fortress exist.
Strongholds of Refuge
Strongholds of refuge (fortresses where local
inhabitants hid from invaders) are also located at: Kaplandag
(Tiger Mountain, 468m.), Kovuk Çal peak, Büyük Keneli peak,
Tirman Dagi (548m.), Büyük Çevrim, Tirman, Kisla Dagi
(400m.). The remains of a large number of Lelegian dwellings
can also be seen at the latter location.
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