Bodrum tonight begins just before sunset, heralded by the sound of rushing wings as flocks of crows return to the Castle for evening roost and by the chugging of daily tour boats returning to evening harbor. The traditional holiday pastime of quietly sipping cocktails while watching the sun slowly sink into the sea is unfortunately impossible in Bodrum due to its location on the southern shore of the Bodrum Peninsula.

That pleasure is reserved for those staying on the western coast, in villages such as Turgutreis. However those residing in Bodrum are perhaps more fortunate. While lacking the view of the sunset, Bodrumites, or Bodrumlu in Turkish, can witness shadows slowly ascending the whitewashed houses and surrounding hillsides as the Castle takes on a glowing golden hue from the rays of the setting sun before turning an azure blue highlighted in gold as the sun sinks and the Castle lights come on.

One of the best places for watching this unique spectacle is in the Marina or in one of the many bars or cafes that line the harborfront. Best of all is to visit the amphitheater perched on the hillside above town. Well worth a visit in its own right, the amphitheater acquires a special ambiance at dusk, the panorama of Bodrum, harbor, Castle and the Aegean beyond spread out below.

Strolling down from the amphitheater the visitor enters quiet neighborhoods, filled with the sights and sounds of children playing, and their parents sitting in open gardens or on the steps of their houses, enjoying a cup of tea, a beer or a glass of Raki after work. Like on all streets in Bodrum, the visitor eventually winds up at the sea, in this case the busy harborfront, alive with cafes, bars and restaurants.

Customary before dinner cocktails can be had at any Bodrum bar featuring the exotic, or local Turkish spirits, wines, beers and most importantly Raki, an aniseed flavored liquor nicknamed lions milk due to its milky color when mixed with water or ice and the lion-like affect it can have. Dining in Turkey is lighthearted, lingering and can last hours. Bodrum restaurants offer everything from traditional Turkish cuisine to contemporary Western to everything in between. Dinner usually begins with drinks, followed by "meze" Turkish starters or hors d'oeuvres and then progresses through entree to desert, usually fresh fruit in the summer season. Each course, of course punctuated by liberal doses of Raki.

After dinner Bodrum remains open until the crack of dawn. Most shop and boutique are open until midnight, perhaps the best time to shop as the cool of the evening is more comfortable, a few drinks makes everything look better and local shopkeepers just might be willing to offer that special bargain for one more sale before closing.

Bodrum probably has more bars per area than anywhere else in Turkey, appealing to all tastes. Intimate seaside cafes, with magnificent views of the illuminated Castle mingle with busy, energetic streetside bars featuring the latest music. There are also a number of clubs that offer live music, either traditional Turkish folk music or jazz. A specialty of a number of hotels and tavernas is Turkish Night, where local musicians play the "saz", a guitarlike instrument and the "zurna" a type of flute in accompaniment to belly dancers swaying between tables.

The most popular after evening attraction is, however, simply to see and be seen, mingling with people of all description. After dinner one can wander the streets at leisure, caressed by the balmy night breeze, stopping for a cup of thick Turkish coffee, a glass of tea or something stronger.

The beautiful Bodrum climate, so enjoyable in the daytime doesn't slink of with the setting sun. Beachfront restaurants are open all evening, and a boat trip and a swim are just as enjoyable after dark. Away from the lights of Bodrum, the Turkish sky takes on brilliance unseen in the industrial west. A great place to enjoy it is from a boat anchored outside the hot springs at Karaada Island. There, with some friends, a bottle of wine, and a few candles you can explore the caverns, waist deep in warm water, as a Turkish Tom Sawyer.

For those with energy left Bodrum discos and nightclubs close when the sunrises and you can literally dance until dawn. Nightclubs in Bodrum also feature the added plus of most of them being open air and on the seaside. After an energetic night on the town, most Turks would feel that one more snack is in order before bed. Soup is preferred as the traditional remedy to prevent tomorrow's hangover but there are a variety of snack bars open to fill a variety of cravings.

By this time the Muezzin is climbing the minaret to begin his prayers and usher in another day. A day and a night only Bodrum can offer.